Today’s wandering takes us to the other side of South Africa.  To Mpumalanga. 

Near Ohrigstad there’s a pass that winds up towards the edge of the Drakensberg escarpment – Robbers Pass. At the top of this pass there is a forestry track off to the left, hard to spot unless you’ve been there before.  Bump along this track through the pine plantation for a short way until you turn a bend and the whole valley stretches before you.  You have arrived at Themeda Hills Mountain Camp. 

Now I don’t know if it still operates anymore, but this spot has to be one of Mpumalanga’s best kept secrets.  My family have been visiting for years.  I can’t remember who found it first, but I definitely associate trips to Themeda with my Grandad Jim.

Eight little stone rondavels perch on the edge of the world here with simply spectacular views.  At a fairly decent altitude there is a distinct alpine tinge to the air and vegetation and the sometimes moody cloud.  Rondavel 8 is the best.  I saw my first African Crowned Eagle here. 

Words and photos do not do the magic of this pure space justice.

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After losing yourself on top of the world for a little while, time to join reality again.  Down the other side of Robbers Pass you will come to Pilgrims Rest.  Two options from here. 

First, the road less travelled.  A dirt road the follows the Blyde River from its source near Pilgrims Rest as it ambles and meanders its way toward Bourke’s Luck Potholes. 

The second option is the more popular R533 to Graskop.  A stop at Harrie’s Pancakes before finding the R532 which will start you on the Panorama Route through the Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve with lots of scenic stops like God’s Window, Lisbon and Berlin Falls along the way.

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More of this Panorama Route tomorrow…